This Is England, Backstage at House of Holland
With influences as far-flung as Shane Meadows’ 2006 film This Is England, about a group of skinheads in 1983 London, and what he termed “pastel punk,” Henry Holland gave his glam squad plenty to work with for Spring. And believe us when we tell you it was a legitimate squad, featuring Lucia Pica on makeup duty, Sophy Robson heading up nails, the Percy & Reed salon’s Adam Reed and Paul Percival tending to hair, and St. Tropez’s Nichola Joss taking care of the skin. “It’s supposed to look bold, but not glamorous,” Pica said of the makeup look, which focused on a peachy red, heavily lined eye. Blending shades of MAC Pro Chromacake in crimson and coral, Pica smudged lids for a “watercolorlike” wash that resembled the natural undertones of the truly pale. Beneath the bottom lash line, she etched a thick black stroke using MAC Eye Kohl in Smolder, which she topped with its Fluidline in Blacktrack and an extra dusting of matte black shadow so it looked “fairly lived-in,” Pica said. A few coats of “pulled-out” mascara and a completely bare lip finished the face, which was given a heavy hitting of shine, courtesy of MAC Shine Mixing Medium and St. Tropez’s Skin Illuminator in Rose Gold, before models strode out onto the runway.
Joss was also after shine, which she imparted to exposed legs, arms, and clavicles using St. Tropez’s Wash Off self tanner that was sprayed on in a mobile booth erected backstage. “It’s very British,” she said of the finish, which, for the record, bore zero resemblance to the stereotypical orange faux glow preferred by some locals. Instead, Joss imparted a dewy quality to skin—as though “the girls had been out partying,” she said. “This just evens it out and gives an undercurrent of glow so you can put an illuminator on top.”
Reed was going for something quintessentially British, as well. “It’s a mod finish,” he said of the hair, focusing his attention on a severely sleek updo that was prepped with the Reassuringly Firm Session Hold Hairspray from his newly launched Percy & Reed product line. Straightening with his trusty Babyliss iron, Reed created a top section of hair that he pulled back at the temple and pinned with a long, rose-gold barrette, before gathering the rest of the lengths into a low ponytail and securing with a second barrette at the nape of the neck. To add “quirkiness,” he gently “ruffled up” some wispy sideburns. Robson also brought the quirk, fashioning half-done, candy-colored tips that benefited from a sponge technique bringing three different Leighton Denny lacquers in a pale lavender, mint green, and peach halfway up the nail bed, which had been filed into a round shape. “They’re supposed to look chipped,” she noted.
Photo: Becky Maynes; GoRunway.com