“Floating” Liner And The “Bow-Tail” Debut Backstage At Erdem
Makeup artist Andrew Gallimore plotted the face at Erdem amid a flurry of buzzwords: robotic, androgynous, futuristic, intelligent, architectural. But it wasn’t until Mr. Moralioglu talked about creating a “trick of the eye” that Gallimore’s look fell into place. “He said it, and I thought of this floating flick in the socket. It’s not on the lashline, it’s not a 1950′s line—it’s got a robotic, modern feel to it. And it’s minimal—when there’s so much going on with the clothes, this is just a touch of something different,” he said, drawing a sideways triangle using MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack onto a perfected canvas of MAC Strobe Cream, Studio Sculpt Foundation, and its Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder. A slick of MAC Lip Conditioner SPF15 kept mouths moisturized but discreet.
More glossy polish came courtesy of St. Tropez’ resident skin-finishing expert, Nichola Joss, who used the shades of amethyst that shot through the collection as an excuse to break out a bottle of St. Tropez Violet Skin Illuminator, which added an almost unearthly, incandescent hue to the exposed limbs in the show. Even the nails weren’t quite of this world. Erdem was very specific about the shade he was after—an androgynous but vibrant blue courtesy of Nail Girls Electric Blue 12, a custom color that will be available for purchase come August.
As for the hair, Marc Trinder used Moralioglu’s hodgepodge of references to arrive at the “bow-tail”—a “super-luxe, polished ponytail with a tiny, girly bow,” he elaborated backstage. Damp hair was prepped with Charles Worthington Sensitive Ultra Soothing Detangler Spray, worked into a center part, and then glossed up using its Hair Elixir. After smoothing the mid-lengths with hands that had been coated with Charles Worthington Front Row Heat Defence Spray, strands were flat-ironed and gathered at the nape of the neck. A fine black ribbon softened the sleek lines, with a drop more of the Hair Elixir to banish flyaways.—Grace Timothy