Individual Efforts, Backstage At DVF
James Kaliardos and Orlando Pita don’t have to look too far to find beauty inspiration at Diane von Furstenberg, where they often reference the designer herself—from her Studio 54 days to her more recent globe-trotting jaunts to the far reaches of Africa, India, and beyond. But for Spring, von Furstenberg wanted something else. “After looking at four different hair tests on four different girls, she turned around and said, ‘Can we do that?’” Pita recalled of the moment Diane decided to make the look more about the models’ individuality and less referential of her own.
“These girls already have these amazing gifts of beauty, so we just want to enhance them,” Pita said of strands that came in center-parted, side-parted, straight, and wavy iterations—all of which mixed seamlessly with von Furstenberg’s colorful, varied collection. There was one curly girl, too, which afforded Pita the unavoidable opportunity of paying homage to the woman behind the brand. “[Katryn Kruger] looks a little like Diane so we’re going to do her hair like [Diane's].”
Kaliardos went with a more uniform makeup look, which started with a base of MAC’s new-for-spring Mineralize Moisture Fluid Liquid Foundation, some slight contouring with its forthcoming Sculpting Cream in Pure Sculpture, and a “ruddy, healthy, punchy” cheek courtesy of its Blushcreme in Tea Petal. “We’re using the same palette, but tailoring the look a little bit for each girl,” he explained of the slightly smoked-out lower lash line that he intensified or pared down with a stroke of MAC’s Pro Chromagraphic Pencil in NC15/NW20 and its Eyeshadow in Antique and Espresso. “It has a slight Indian vibe,” Kaliardos admitted of the dark, elongated shape as he added a few whips of MAC Haute & Naughty Mascara on the top and bottom lash lines and affixed a few individual lashes on the outer corners—which only served to make models like Kasia Struss and Joan Smalls look that much more gorgeous in their own unique ways.
Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com