Long Live “The New Goth,” Backstage At Givenchy
“There’s a darkness to it,” Luigi Murenu said of the beauty look backstage at Givenchy, stating the obvious about the drastically middle-parted hair that was a story of extreme contrasts. “It’s either long or short, blond or black,” Murenu continued, tucking the lengths into high collars, containing them with long satin scarves or cutting them off entirely, trimming a few girls, and dyeing them lighter or darker accordingly—as he did with Saskia de Brauw, the season’s latest severe brunette. ”I like that it changes all the time,” the Dutch model said of her shaggy boy cut that was light brown with blond highlights just a matter of hours before the show (and a dark blond for the Spring issue of Love magazine) before getting a mocha glaze to match fellow catwalkers like Stella Tennant and Jamie Bochert.
Pat McGrath continued to promote her take on the season’s “dark glamour,” crafting yet another unexpectedly deep lip, this time in a gray-brown shade that was echoed on models’ lids. “It’s all about this beautiful dark brown eye,” she said, heavily rimming the upper and lower lash lines with a dusty brown pencil and then softening it with a similar color of cream shadow. “It should feel like skin,” she explained of the wash of pigment that was meticulously blended through the crease and up to the brow bone, adding a few strokes of brown mascara and a topcoat of clear gloss before models hit the runway. The lip, a custom mix created specifically for Riccardo Tisci, was kept deliberately matte to “bring a real strength to the face.” “It’s the new goth,” Murenu surmised of the collective dark, romantic numbers that he and McGrath have been putting up all over Paris. “It’s modern and it’s chic”—and it sure beats the old goth.—Celia Ellenberg