Backstage At Ulyana Sergeenko, Sleeping Beauty Stirs
The beauty direction for Ulyana Sergeenko‘s third Couture outing was heavily rooted in the notion of a fairy tale, a Russian one specifically, as it has been in seasons past. But for Fall, Sergeenko brought in a new team of backstage experts to bring the idea to life—literally. “She wanted the girls to look like Sleeping Beauty, like they’d just woken up out of a coffin,” Charlotte Tilbury explained of the “dreamy” skin that was kept purposefully pale and “dusty,” with a whisper of a rose-kissed flush courtesy of a blend of MAC Lipsticks in Ruby Woo and Sin. To make the eyes look as big as possible, the makeup artist turned her attention to a concentrated contouring effort, blending MAC Cream Colour Base in Groundwork, a creamy beige, through the socket and etching a thin black line along the upper lashes, which had been beefed up with additional individual strands for a “doll-like” quality. As an added effect, just before the show began, Tilbury painted a few dots of clear gloss below the inner corners of lids to give the illusion of teardrops, which caught the light as models walked the runway.
But that was only part of the makeup story. The other big news was a sneak preview of Tilbury’s own line, which launches in Europe this fall and was enjoying a test run during Couture week. She kept relatively mum about the specifics, showing off lab samples of an extra-emollient priming cream, a finely milled powder, and an “amazing” mascara, although the flame-haired face painter did give us one juicy detail: “It’s called Nude Kate,” she said of the lipstick she used on mouths, a pink-y beige color she developed for her friend and longtime client Kate Moss.
Orlando Pita was keeping things similarly interesting, busying himself with styling—and snipping. “I’m doing an Ulyana wig,” the hairstylist effused of the light brown hairpiece that he was actively cropping into a piece-y pixie cut for Jac to wear with the show’s closing look. “Otherwise, it’s a fishtail braid,” he explained of the show’s main hair design, which featured a center part and not one, but two different fishtail braids loosely plaited, one on top of the other, and then joined at the neck in a messy, free-form chignon. “I didn’t come here just to do a messy bun,” Pita joked of the elaborate, texturized style that was essentially meant to resemble couture bedhead—”how [Sleeping Beauty]‘s hair would be had her head been on a pillow.” It also happened to offer the perfect base for the alternating cloche-like hats and dangling forehead jewels that completed the elaborate fantasy.—Celia Ellenberg
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