“Blurry” Bordeaux Lips And “Viny” Hair, Backstage At Marni
Tom Pecheux loves Marni, a point that is made ever clearer by the fact that, when you ask him about the makeup backstage here, his first priority is to tell you about the clothes. “It’s an insane, insane, insane beautiful collection,” he gushed about Consuelo Castiglioni’s Fall lineup, which, in a slight departure, was devoid of her signature bounty of prints and embroidery, and instead featured a masculine, monochromatic palette of luxurious fabrics. There was a single color that caught Pecheux’s eye, though: a deep, piercing raspberry fur that served as the inspiration for one of the best bordeaux lips we’ve seen yet this season.
“I wanted it to be a little blurry,” the makeup artist explained of the wash of MAC Lipmix in Crimson and its Lipstick in Hang-up that he painted onto pouts and topped with its Pigment in Basic Red to impart a dry finish. “Destroy the line,” he instructed his team while dipping Q-tips into MAC’s Invisible Set Powder and tracing them around the lip line for a diffused effect that called to mind old Sarah Moon photos. The powder was also integral to mattifying models’ skin, which was kept deliberately pale to make the mouth pop—and to contrast with the combination of MAC Lipmixes in Mid-Tone Nude and Orange that Pecheux layered across lids and underneath the lower lash line before topping them with its Gloss Texture for shine.
Acknowledging that Castiglioni’s woman was much “tougher” than usual for Fall, Paul Hanlon was compelled to add a masculine edge to hair via an extra-low side part that was coated with Tigi Catwalk Curlesque Strong Mousse and diffused through hairnets to achieve a “viny” texture that resembled ropes. “It’s a little bit twisted,” he admitted, making a purposefully bent mark in the back of strands to create the illusion of a scarf that had been tied around them causing a ridged imprint. The point was to move away from more whimsical notions and embrace something decidedly “deconstructed” instead, Hanlon explained. Mission accomplished.
Photo: Luca Cannonieri/ Gorunway.com