Sleek and Sportif, Backstage at Marni
In contrast to seasons past, the boxy Marni silhouette was drawn closer to the body for Spring, and an athletic theme emerged, with graphic visors and gem-encrusted fanny packs cheekily worn on models’ backsides. Tom Pecheux put his own “twist” on the makeup, citing the Austrian visual artist Markus Schinwald—who is known for his manipulation of classic beauty (he often adds slightly disconcerting elements, like masks or bandages, on top of nineteenth-century paintings)—as his inspiration. The brows were enveloped in a “cloud” of MAC Sparkle Shadow in Night Light (a glittery gray) that both exaggerated their shape and played off the shade created by the wide-brimmed hats. Extra Dimension Blush in Pleasure Model was placed low on the cheeks near the jawline, “almost where a man’s beard would be,” elaborated Pecheux. (There’s that “twist” again.) The rest of the face, however, was kept quite pure, with a light dusting of Eye Shadow in Gesso washed over the lid and placed on the high points of the cheekbones. A touch of the same pinky-nude blush was swept gently along the lash lines for additional contrast. Mouths were topped off with a shade that’s been popping up in key artists’ kits all season long: Velvetease Lip Pencil in Mattely in Love.
And while there was sporty headgear, tennis was not what hairstylist Paul Hanlon had in mind; he was drawn to the “geishalike” platform sandals and architectural lines of the clothing. “I kept everything above the visor very clean and considered,” he explained—so as to not detract from the opulent embellishments and patterns in the collection. At the top, a center part was made and strands were shellacked close to the scalp. Hanlon employed a fine-tooth comb and layers of L’Oréal Paris Elnett Satin hair spray to get the glassy effect, dousing the crown and sides before and after fitting models with a stocking cap and locking the look in place with heat from a blow-dryer. From the ears down, the texture was more “organic.” TIGI Bed Head Superstar Queen for a Day Thickening Spray was misted all over to build body, while a small hidden pony—made with the underlayers near the nape of the neck—also added dimension; it was looped through a Topsy Tail (yes, you read that right) to keep it close to the head. Hanlon wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron to achieve an “airy” finish, and the extra-long strings that hung down from the visors were gently tied over the hair, catching a few pieces in the back. “I wanted it to look almost like a mistake, so everything wasn’t so precise,” he said. If a blush beard meeting modern minimalism looks this good, I say game on.—Amber Kallor
Photo: Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages.com