There’s No Such Thing as Cookie-Cutter Beauty at Diane von Furstenberg
Backstage at DVF there was talk of more than what sits solely on the surface. “Diane is very socially aware, as you can see with the casting, which is very diverse—unlike many designers during fashion week,” said makeup artist James Kaliardos. To reflect each model’s individuality and let her inner beauty shine through, he opted for sheer, creamy textures in warm, neutral colors like copper and sand. After evening out the complexion and using translucent powder on the T-zone to cancel shine from the lights on the runway, Kaliardos “cheated black liner in the [upper] lash bed,” which provided definition and created the illusion of fuller fringe. He then wrapped the eyes with a blend of two cream shadows from the MAC Spring ’14 Trend Forecast Palette—New in Season and Cultivating Chic—to create a subtle and shimmery copper hue, then coated lashes with Haute & Naughty Lash mascara. The tops of cheekbones were patted with Casual Colour in Keep It Loose for a soft glow, and lips were slicked with either a peachy nude or taupe gloss, depending on skin tone. “You can’t compare someone from Africa to someone from Sweden—they’ll always look different, but both are beautiful,” he added.
The hair was kept quite simple, as the designer was inspired by how the models arrived at their fittings with loose, lived-in waves, explained Orlando Pita. He started with a middle part and worked in BioSilk Volumizing Therapy Styling Foam, Texturizing Powder, or Root Lifter (depending on hair type) before blow-drying to create texture. Next he went in with a curling iron and bent the hair under and over the barrel to form his signature “S” patterns (think: Botticelli waves for the modern woman). Strands were lightly glossed over with Silk Therapy to cancel any frizz or flyaways.
And while the look as a whole was certainly scaled back, Diane von Furstenberg definitely made a strong statement about beauty. I think Kaliardos summed it up perfectly: “Each girl is her own woman.”—Amber Kallor