Thrice as Nice at Derek Lam
Similar to Lam’s clothing for the season, the hair was all about “structured ease,” said Orlando Pita. While some girls wore theirs down with a turban tied over top, and others sported a ponytail, all had a slightly off-center part and a natural, wavy texture. To get it, he misted Phytolaque Soie light hold hairspray all over to act as a setting lotion and used the extra-large T3 BodyWaver to add movement—wrapping sections of hair under and over the barrel to form “S” patterns. For a second-day finish, he glossed over the surface of strands—as opposed to finger-combing, which creates flyaways—with Fiber Paste. Manicurist Jin Soon also kept things simple by layering two shades of her namesake polish in Nostalgia and Tulle for a non-muddy, universal nude.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux’s response to the direction (one word: minimal) given by the designer was surprisingly not at all bare or boring. “I’ll give you three looks, how about that?” he quipped. The first one focused on rich textures—like creamy skin, a shimmery antique-gold cream shadow (part of a range developed by Lam, Pecheux, and Estée Lauder launching in January), and a moist nude lip. “I wanted to create a cuddle for the eye,” Pecheux says of the soft metallic shade. Since there was no blush, mascara, or brows, he added a subtle glow to the face by putting two drops of Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II in the palm of his hand and embracing the cheeks—leaving behind a dewy finish that catches the light.
The slightly edgier second concept built upon the first—with midnight blue eyeliner (part of the same forthcoming line) drawn in tilted rectangular shapes (inspired by the navy-checked fabric in the collection) on the outer corners of the eyes with a square lip brush. “It’s almost like you put on [a band of] liner and took two-thirds of it off—leaving only the essential part that lifts the eye,” he explained. Pecheux envisions a woman who is off to after-work cocktails or an exhibition adding this graphic element on top of her everyday shadow.
The most dramatic of the three looks accompanied the final four evening gowns in the show. This time, Pecheux sexed things up by applying the same navy liner to the inner rim and blending it onto the lower lashes—finishing with mascara for definition. “This [reflects] the lives of women today,” he says of his layered approach. “They don’t have time to take a shower, [remove] their makeup and redo it, or go back to their hairdresser for a blow-dry,” Finally, a face painter that gets me.—Amber Kallor