Fashion’s House of Horrors, Backstage at Erdem
An abandoned, almost derelict, old hotel; a plush red-carpeted catwalk; dark and intense lighting: The setting for Erdem’s Fall 2014 show was as dramatic as the ornate clothes that were soon to make their way down the catwalk.
Makeup artist Val Garland summed up the look in terms of a movie title: Village of the Damned. She perfected complexions using NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer and Radiant Creamy Concealer, purposefully leaving the area around the eyes bereft of base so that the skin took on its own natural shading and contours—a choice inspired by the work of photographer Sarah Moon. Lids were slicked with clear gloss before Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via Veneto was used to rim the upper and lower waterlines. To keep focus entirely on the eyes, brows were toned down with a touch of foundation. Staying true to the face painter’s previous assertion that she has “not touched a mascara wand in London this season,” lashes were left bare, and lips were patted with stick concealer to cancel the natural pinky tones.
Manicurist Jenni Draper carried the theme onto nails with a few coats of Essie nail lacquer in Allure. “We wanted something ghostly but not too white,” she said. “A shade with a lot of white would just be too high fashion, and that’s not what this woman is about.”
In addition to Moon, hairstylist Anthony Turner cited Jane Eyre as a reference point. With the literary heroine in mind, he crafted a wispy and ethereal knot at the nape of the neck, using L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Pli for texture. With just his fingertips, he teased strands of hair to fall over the face like a veil. “This gives the impression of something more ethereal and romantic,” he explained. “Val left the skin quite glossy, so the idea is that the hair will stick to the face, lending her a mysterious quality.”—Suzanne Scott