Getting Into the Swing of Things, Backstage at Gucci
The Gucci woman always has sex appeal, but in lieu of the bombshell beauty we’ve come to expect, a swinging sixties character took her place this season. To channel the era and icons like Marianne Faithfull and Britt Ekland, Pat McGrath used a taupe-y gray shadow to emphasize the crease and employed a combination of black pencil and liquid liner along the upper and lower lashes—extending the shape straight past the outer corners but not winging it up, she explained. After rimming the waterline with a beige pencil to open up the eyes, a full strip of falsies was placed on both top and bottom to complete the lush look and play off the shag furs and psychedelic pastel tones in the collection.
Mane master Luigi Murenu mentioned Faithfull as a jumping-off point for the “disheveled but beautiful” hair, but also noted a more contemporary reference: “a more coiffed Kate Moss.” He made a side part and swept the hair across models’ foreheads before bending the length around a curling iron for texture. The ends were flat-ironed to lend “strength and modernity” to the style. For “personality” and to keep strands in control on the catwalk, he gently twisted back a small section on either side of the face and joined them at the middle of the head, discreetly pinning everything into place before misting all over with hairspray. “Last season there was a lot more structure,” he said, but whimsy (a word not usually associated with the Italian house) was in full force today.—Amber Kallor
Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com