Up All Night, Backstage at Missoni
Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni described the woman at Missoni as “a cool girl who’s been out all night, she’s got her boyfriend’s coat on, and is waiting for the bus around six in the morning.” In the case of today’s show, that coat would involve chevron stripes and vibrant tangerine trim.
The focus was primarily on the eyes—particularly the lashes, where “tons and tons and tons of mascara” was used from the iris to the outer corners on top and bottom to create a spidery, “haywire” effect. For an even more imperfect finish, lashes were pinched together to make them “a bit crooked.” (Some models with sparser fringe received a set of falsies for thickness, just on the outer half of the eyes.) To intensify the clumpy effect, MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack was applied from the middle outward on the upper and lower lash lines in a soft square shape, then blended with a matte, ebony-colored shadow.
“It feels like she’s done her hair herself, but not in front of a mirror,” Eugene Souleiman said of the “imbalanced” topknots. (The Missoni girl likely crafted this while she was waiting for the bus to pull up.) The style was simple enough to create: Loosely secure a ponytail with elastic to create “bagginess,” then pin in place. Since multiple models were dashing from Dolce & Gabbana via car and moped (no time to wait for public transportation), “necessity became the mother of invention,” Souleiman explained. “I love it because it’s a five-minute hairdo.”—Amber Kallor