Putting on the Glitz, Backstage at Rodarte
Glitter, butterflies, and Star Wars—that’s what little girls are made of, at least in the minds of Kate and Laura Mulleavy. There was certainly no shortage of sparkle backstage, as makeup artist James Kaliardos channeled “childhood remembrances of beauty before grunge ruined them,” he explained. And what child of the eighties wouldn’t want glitter lipstick? I’m not talking a delicate sprinkling of sparkle—Kaliardos went to town mixing the fine, shimmery particles with two shades of NARS lipstick: Deborah Audacious (a brown-berry) and Dominique Audacious (a mauve-y pink). Complexions were perfected with full-on foundation, concealer, and powder, while the contours of the face were dusted with a luminescent blush (dubbed Unlawful) and layered with the Matte Multiple in Anguilla. The eyes were as over-the-top as models’ mouths, with the reddish brown side of the forthcoming Dolomites Duo used on the lower rim, over the lid, and up into the brows. The adjacent lavender shadow was dusted on the center and inner corners before mascara was applied to the top lashes only. The resulting cloud of color was how Kaliardos imagined Cinderella would have worn her eye makeup—except she would have chosen pale blue.
The hair—especially on catwalker Chloe Nørgaard, whose rainbow color is as spectacular as a My Little Pony—was equally as dreamy. Odile Gilbert added in extensions for length that could rival Rapunzel’s, before spritzing strands with John Frieda leave-in conditioner and creating two braids. “It’s not a question of being thick, it’s a question of being long,” she explained. After letting the plaits set, she unraveled them to reveal mermaidlike waves before making a side part, twisting one side back, and pinning it in place with a butterfly-adorned barrette. Nails also got the princess treatment—receiving a layer of Sally Hansen lacquer in Pink Dream, an iridescent glitter available in September. If the designers are looking for someone to play dress-up with, I’m ready, willing, and available.—Amber Kallor
Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com