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subscribe to beauty blog via RSSInès de la Fressange Brings Beauty To Roger Vivier
July 29, 2010
Inès de la Fressange has a pretty plum gig. As brand ambassador to Roger Vivier, the iconic French shoe label now designed by the fabulous Bruno Frisoni, the former model travels the world infusing cool into the popular perception of the brand. Her latest endeavor, though, found her hunkered down in the perfume lab alongside famed nose Rami Mekdachi. Vivier’s first collection of fragrances based around five single-notes made its debut at the Paris couture shows earlier this month. L’Iris, L’Ambre, Le Santal, Le Néroli, and La Rose will bow stateside in October. To hold you over until then, we had a few exclusive words with de la Fressange about putting “refinement, quality, and rarity” back into fragrance.
After nearly a century, why did you feel the Roger Vivier brand needed a fragrance now?
Today, it’s all about marketing and licenses, and often perfumes have little in common with the original house. We initially started with just a candle for all the Vivier boutiques in order to have a universal smell around the world; fragrance was an obvious next step. Real luxury is no market research. It’s all about desire, spontaneity, and frivolity. As you said, Roger Vivier is a brand. We wanted to give a little part of the brand to our customers as it used to be in the past with famous haute couture houses.
Do you see an inherent connection between fragrance and fashion—or accessories, as the case may be?
More with wine, actually! It’s all about know-how, refinement, and luxury. A beautiful house couldn’t look splendid if it smelled bad when you entered, right? But also, if you remember your granny or someone you loved that is not here anymore, from your childhood or whatever, you may remember a scarf, a piece of jewelry, a scent, or a perfume. What touches your soul is a music, a melody—not the way the person would keep her bank statement papers.
Seeing as fragrance is somewhat uncharted ground for you, what was the creative process like as far as conceptualizing all of the scents?
Personally, I hate all the recent, massive launches of new perfumes. I don’t recognize my taste in these new creations—especially when it seems that advertising and marketing are more important than the perfume itself. I felt bad at first, for not understanding this trend and in turn acting a little more conservative than usual. But it seems that many women feel the same way and are looking for more refinement, quality, and rarity within a fragrance. Elegance and beauty were the target. I know that these words seem a little “vintage,” but a little bit of honesty and sincerity is not bad. Also, you just have to find the right talent: I found Rami Mekdachi, who used to work with famous, big companies but couldn’t stand the system anymore—a little bit like Azzedine Alaïa, really…
Aside from your mantra that “luxury is choosing not to choose,” why did you ultimately launch with five scents instead of just one?
Some customers buy 20 pairs of shoes at the same time—so why not five fragrances? But, actually, the truth is, I couldn’t choose. After all, Vivier has been creating shoes for a century and a pair of sandals, a pair of embroidered pumps, and a pair of high boots are all completely different. We have customers like Lee Radziwill, Anh Duong, and Sarah Jessica Parker—how can we speak about the Vivier woman?!
As the Vivier muse, do you have a favorite scent?
Amber, no doubt! But the sandalwood (a very good name for a shoemaker!) is made with real sandalwood from India, and the Iris and Rose are the most exclusive essences on earth. We wouldn’t be able to find enough if we wanted to do a “normal” launch. The Néroli was a huge success when we presented [it] in Paris in the sunny days of July. For the moment, it’s impossible to say which one is going to be the “hit.” To tell you the truth, we are slightly nervous we won’t have enough quantities, since we weren’t expecting such a warm welcome!
What about other beauty-oriented ideas for the brand—future fragrances or otherwise?
The nice thing about [Roger Vivier chairman] Diego Della Valle is that I can start my sentences by, “I wish to do….” He knows that I only wish excellence for Vivier, and in that spirit he trusts me and allows me the freedom to turn my wishes into reality. He knows we make luxury with luxury. If we can do something special, we will. But making a soap or a cream just to “match” the perfume is not in the spirit of the house. What I know is that it only depends with whom you are doing what!
Jessica Biel, Wild Child
July 28, 2010
Apparently The A-Team is still having premieres in the rest of the world despite debuting to mediocre reviews in the States nearly two months ago. That means Jessica Biel and her well-toned triceps have been out and about on the red carpet, most recently in Europe. After sporting a middle part and smooth, soft waves in Madrid on Monday, the actress spiced things up at last night’s London premiere. To match her saucy attempt at the ubiquitous see-through trend (black hot pants under a sheer red dress, eh?), Biel rough-dried her hair and added a texturizer, presumably a salt spray, to add a piece-y, fuzzy matte finish to her signature waves. She looks feral—and we like it. You?
tags: Hair, Jessica Biel, The A-Team
Meet Tom Bachik, Chanel’s First Ever Celebrity Nail Artist
July 28, 2010
Tom Bachik makes for an unlikely manicurist. A California skater boy with a graphic design background, Bachik fell into the nail business in 1994 and has since built up an impressive clientele (ScarJo, Gwen Stefani, and Victoria Beckham are all fans). It’s thanks to his Hollywood cred that Chanel—a brand that has recently become as famous for its ready-to-wear nail polishes as its iconic quilted bags—quietly signed him as its first ever celebrity manicurist. We caught up with Bachik while he was helping his brother film an NYU student movie on Cesar Chavez in Arvin, California, and grilled him on nail art, how he landed one of the sweetest beauty gigs around, and that pale blue polish in Beyoncé’s “Why Don’t You Love Me?” video (yup, it’s Chanel).
So…how did a straight dude from California end up a celebrity manicurist?
Oh man, you know what, it was kind of one of those…not accidents, but maybe revelations, I guess. I’d originally gone to school for graphic design, and at the time I was into racing jet skis and custom-painting helmets and things like that. My wife and I were getting ready to have our first son, it was the middle of a recession, and the whole starving-artist thing wasn’t working anymore, so I needed to find a real job. Then one day we were having lunch with my cousin, who was going to school for hair, and he was like, “You know, during times of recession, both the beauty and the alcohol industries actually increase in revenue.” Because people want to look and feel good! And those simple cheap pleasures like polishing your nails can make you feel much better in spite of everything else that’s going on. And I said, “Yeah, but I don’t have a year and a half to go back to school for hair and makeup,” and he’s all, “No, do nails.” At the time nail school was three months and he knew people who had opened a salon after graduating who were bringing in six figures. That happened on a Thursday; on a Friday we checked out the school, and on Monday I started.
Were there any other guys in your class?
Nope. Nothing. There was not one guy in my class. And at the time the whole Asian nail salon explosion hadn’t even happened yet, so there were even less guys doing it than there are now.
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tags: Beyonce, Chanel, Gwen Stefani, Nails, Peter Philips, Scarlett Johansson, Tom Batchik, Victoria Beckham
Bare Escentuals Introduces Obedient Eye Shadow
July 28, 2010
Boldly adorned eyes are big for fall (see the purple peepers at Carolina Herrera and the iridescent smoky lids at DVF, for starters). The look demands richly saturated pigments that won’t fade, and if you’re looking for a shadow that provides that necessary “pow,” Bare Escentuals’ new Buxom Stay-There Eye Shadow delivers. The waterproof, mineral-based formula is infused with vitamin E and aloe, which gives it a revolutionary, almost spongelike quality. When pressed with a finger, the shadow actually bounces a bit in the jar. This springy, weightless texture allows the vivid colors to glide onto the skin without any of the grease that would normally dissolve the pigment or lead to midday creasing. As for the shades themselves, the palette includes ten metallic hues that can be layered and blended to create endless, um, eye-catching combinations. For an added bit of playfulness, the shades are named for canines, who, like the shadows, “stay there” on command (the Saint Bernard deep sea green and Black Lab inky onyx are two personal favorites). Part of the proceeds go toward the Canine Companions for Independence charity, which makes stocking up on the statement-making eye accents even more appealing.
Portman And Coppola To Join Forces For Dior, A Buzz-Worthy Botox Alternative, And More…
July 27, 2010
Word around the blogosphere is that Natalie Portman’s first order of business as the face of Dior Beauty will be to star in the brand’s latest cinemercial, which will allegedly be shot by Sofia Coppola. For those of you who, like us, watched the director’s sweet, macaron-fueled Miss Dior Cherie short film on repeat when it launched last year, that list of future work procrastination tools just got a little more interesting. [Grazia]
With the announcement about her new fragrance out of the way, Katy Perry has better things to talk to fans about, namely the one girl she’d actually like to kiss (see Portman, Natalie, above) and her manicure plans for her upcoming nuptials to Russell Brand. The self-proclaimed “nail aficionado and freak” will be going with traditional, pretty “wedding nails,” rather than hand designs and Minx appliqués. Bor-ing. [MTV]
For those of you concerned about LiLo’s time in prison, rest assured: The troubled actress has been allowed to keep her hair extensions in, despite earlier reports to the contrary. Only detachable extensions are removed from inmates’ tresses, apparently. Thank goodness for that pro bonding job, eh? [NY Post]
The latest buzzed-about ingredient to join the antiaging discourse? Bee venom, an organic, line-diminishing substance that stars in a new facial that’s taking the London style set by storm. So, yes, Gwyneth is into it. [Daily Mail]
tags: Dior Beauty, Gwyneth Paltrow, Hair, Lindsay Lohan, Natalie Portman, Skincare, Sofia Coppola
Strip: Downtown’s Best Asian Import Since Uniqlo
July 27, 2010
One of the countries where I’m certain that hygiene and general cleanliness are a top priority is Singapore. It’s a place, after all, where spitting and gum-chewing in public were banned so that streets could remain spotless. So it comes as no surprise that at Strip, the Singaporean chain of chic waxing salons that just opened its first location in New York’s Nolita neighborhood, hygiene is top priority. The Strip mantra is simple: HSQ—hygiene, speed, and quality. The airy new industrial-style space is split in two—on one side is Strip, focused on hair removal (via waxing or Intense Pulsed Light therapy), and on the other is Browhaus, which is dedicated to all things arch and lash-related. Restaurant-style menus hang behind each check-in counter, outlining prices and precise treatment options, and the walls are lined with art inspired by greats like Miró, but made entirely out of wax—get it? Each of the nine spacious treatment rooms features heated beds, sealed hygiene kits, and, to combat any possible anxiety or discomfort, Bach’s Flower Essence (a calming elixir) and squeeze toys. More reassuring, though, is the staff’s expertise—everyone on staff undergoes a four-to-eight-week intensive training program in Singapore, and auditors frequently visit from Asia to ensure that everything is running smoothly. And then there are those treatment chairs on the main level in the Browhaus area—exact replicas of Singapore Airlines’ famously comfortable first-class recliners—so you can sit back, relax, and enjoy the brow-shaping and lash-extending ride.
Strip/Browhaus, 56 Spring St., NYC, (212) 431-1121, www.strip-usa.com.
The 411: Tracie Martyn
July 27, 2010
With a client list that includes such A-listers as Madonna, Brad Pitt, and Kate Winslet, superstar facialist Tracie Martyn has scrutinized the pores of most of Hollywood. The British-born pro started out as a makeup artist who had a knack for prepping skin behind the camera. She was so good that models like Kate Moss used to drop by her Brooklyn apartment for pre-photo shoot touch-ups. Eventually, Martyn developed such a following that she retired the makeup brushes and opened up an eponymous spa in Manhattan, where she now performs her signature Resculpting Facial (a.ka. the “red-carpet facial,” known for its CGI-like lifting and contouring effects) on many a bold-facer. She also has a holistic skincare range that’s (almost) as good as a private session and a sparkling new spa in Miami Beach’s Fontainebleau hotel. Here, Martyn gives us a rundown of the experts she swears by.
The pro: Tracie Martyn
Founder of Tracie Martyn Skincare.
The Summer Staple: Tracie Martyn Amla Purifying Cleanser
“During the hot sticky days in New York, nothing is more refreshing. This cools the skin with lime and spearmint, and smells like walking through a forest, as my lovely client Lena Olin put it. It’s also a great multitasker since it exfoliates with green papaya extract, zaps zits with willow bark and salicylic acid, and prevents aging with stabilized vitamin C from the Amla berry.”
Tracie Martyn Amla Purifying Cleanser, $65, www.traciemartyn.com.
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tags: Brad Pitt, Cyndi Lauper, Kate Winslet, Madonna, Skincare, Tracie Martyn
Angelina Takes Japan With Two ‘Dos In One Day
July 27, 2010
As the entire world is well aware, Angelina Jolie is on a globe-spanning junket in support of her new movie Salt. Gone are the days of blood vial necklaces, gray lips, and pixie cuts, but all Angelina, all the time is still an exciting proposition, even if the occasional leather minidress is as outré as she’s going to get. Today in Japan, she sported a pair of different looks to two events—both black and both accompanied by a unique coif. Safe as they may be, each hair choice does justice to the actress’ angular jaw line, nude gloss, and simple black cat-eye. We’d appreciate an off-kilter lip color, but will take what we can get for now. What do you think of her day-to-night transition?
tags: Angelina Jolie, Hair, Salt
First Look: Jade Jagger Does Shalimar
July 27, 2010
The storied love affair between the seventeenth-century Indian prince Shah Jahan and his beloved Princess Mumtaz Mahal inspired the construction of the Taj Mahal, one of the greatest monuments ever built. It also happened to inspire the creation of Shalimar, arguably one of the greatest fragrances of the twentieth century. Named for the magnificent Indian garden that witnessed the couples’ epic romance, Jacques Guerlain’s oriental eau has captured the hearts—and noses—of millions of women, cherished for its rich, opulent scent and its Baccarat crystal flacon with the blue stopper. Since debuting in 1925 at the International Exposition of Decorative Arts in Paris, the fountainlike curves of the original Shalimar bottle have experienced their fair share of transformations. The streamlined “bat bottle” sticks out in recent memory, having encapsulated the vanilla, iris, opopanax (sweet myrrh), and Tonka bean scent since 2001. With a new decade upon us, though, Shalimar’s eau de parfum bottle was due for a post-aughties makeover—and who better to come in at the design helm than rock progeny-turned-jewelry designer Jade Jagger? (Keith Richards’ wife and daughters have already served as spokesmodels for the fragrance, and you can never really have too many Rolling Stones tie-ins, right?) Jagger’s bottle (above, left) officially debuts in September, but we’re premiering it here to ogle its new shape (oh, the beveled glass!) and see a couple of its predecessors, including the original. If we could somehow program a “seek and find” game so you could click what’s new and what has stayed the same, we would. Until then, please feel free to list your discoveries in the comments section below. Which bottle is your favorite?
tags: Fragrance, Guerlain, Jade Jagger, Shalimar
Drugstore Discovery Of The Week: Finesse Delivers A Blast From The Past
July 26, 2010
Finesse brings back hair memories for me. I first started using the apple-scented shampoo in 1989, right around the time I bought my first fashion magazine (the September 1989 issue of Seventeen, to be exact). In between advertisements for Noxzema and Dr. Pepper, I found a glossy multi-page spread for Finesse starring two brown-haired friends with great hair and hot dates to homecoming weekend. To an awkward 11-year-old, the models’ breezy curls and tousled waves conveyed the promise of bouncy hair and good times to come. So naturally, I experimented with all the Finesse products I could get my hands on, but no matter how much I lathered, rinsed, scrunched, and spritzed, my limp locks never looked quite as believably carefree as the models’ hair did in print.
Cut to 21 years later (yikes), and I suddenly have a shot at conquering my pre-teen angst all over again, with the launch of Finesse’s new ReVitality line. Aimed at grown-up kids from the eighties, the six-piece range is formulated with ingredients normally found in antiaging creams and includes shampoos and treatments that feature such boosters as Q10, antioxidants, and collagen to plump and repair dry, brittle, and faded locks. While this advertising slant is a far cry from the cheerleader-meets-football-star excitement of the former campaign, I have to admit, I’m completely blown away by the products. The Volumize & Correct shampoo and conditioner made my hair feel buttery soft and sinewy strong at the same time, giving my strands a dewy flexibility I can only describe as “awesome.” And the scent? It’s just as apple-y fresh and poignant as I remember it.
tags: Finesse, Hair, Revitality Volumize & Correct Shampoo and Conditioner
