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April 19 2014

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spring’s sun-kissed skin: beyond the bronze

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During the Spring show season, designers often pass down a “warm” mandate to the makeup artist in charge backstage. This is why, aside from a few rogue dissenters, you frequently see a bevy of rosy cheeks walking down the runway come September. Spring 2009 was no exception to this general rule, although in a particularly interesting turn of events, no one seemed willing to just call a rose a rose, so to speak. No, this year makeup artists got inventive and took creative license with the whole trend: At 3.1 Phillip Lim, NARS Cosmetics’ Ayako had an inspiration board with pictures of National Geographic cover girls—she called her bronzed cheek contours “dusty Gypsy skin.” Pat McGrath referenced “Mexican folklore” for the semi-flushed face she gave models at Anna Sui, and Charlotte Tilbury called the airbrushed tan she designed for Zac Posen “tribal.” We thought Dick Page’s “après-ski, pre-fondue” wind-burnt look at Michael Kors topped our list of inspirational favorites until we saw Tom Pecheux’s handiwork at Hermès. Approaching “ruddy,” Pecheux’s rugged faces managed to recast the image of frontierswomen in an elegant, even blatantly sexy way. Trailblazing, indeed.

Photo: Clockwise from left, Greg Kessler at Michael Kors; Antonello Trio at Hermès; Maria Valentino at 3.1 Phillip Lim.

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