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Taking Niche To The Next Level

January 6, 2009 10:04 am

Tobias Müksch and Sebastian Fischenich’s Humiecki & Graef fragrance line is gaining something of a cult following for its ability to bottle the complex. Last year the design duo brought you Skarb, a musk, myrrh, and absinthe scent that was inspired by the “deep Slavic soul” and intended to evoke how men cry, and they’ve recently added four new eau de toilettes just as intricately conceived. The duo is moved by “atypical motifs” rather than mere emotions or floral favorites, and even their nose, Christophe Laudamiel, has something of a maverick reputation. Forgoing the standard “scent pyramid” of top, mid, and base notes, Laudamiel builds his concoctions around a “scent star,” a polygonous structure that better allows him to cross raw emotion with fragrance. If your interest is piqued, it should be; the brand’s latest unisex offerings do not disappoint. Gest is an amber and fir resin fragrance rooted in intensity and compelled by “the mystery maturity brings to love”; Eau Radieuse, a fruity fragrance centered around desire, counts green banana and bamboo sape accord among its more standout notes; Multiple Rouge, which is pegged as a fragrance about “wild abandon, folly, and fun,” draws on ozonic red berries to suggest a “devil-may-care madness”; and Askew, a fragrance about—get this—fury, uses birch tar, ginger, and Egyptian mimosa to “demolish the classical men’s fragrance.” Yes, this is innovation. And yes, if they asked us to moonlight as their copywriter we would gladly accept.