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July 23 2014

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An Homage To Man Ray at Malandrino

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For those of you with beauty-centric memories, images from yesterday’s Malandrino show may have called to mind those from last season at McQueen, where netted face masks also accessorized the hair and makeup scheme. But whereas Art Deco inspired Peter Philips and Paul Hammond in Paris, it was 1930′s Surrealism that did it for hairstylist Odile Gilbert and makeup artist Tom Pecheux in New York. Man Ray, to be exact, Gilbert told us, referencing the avant-garde artist whom she channeled to create a look she described as “modern without being too pretentious.” Sculpting three chignon-cum-hat clusters at the top of the models’ heads using hair extensions that were hand-painted by Wella colorist Eva Scrivo, Gilbert wrapped each unique formation with black mesh, pulling it over a few of the girls’ faces when she felt it appropriate. “It’s what we call trompe l’oeil in French,” Pecheux added about the visual deception, which he elaborated on by blanking out lips with MAC Pro Lip Erase and drawing three different lines onto the eyes—one in a half-moon shape on the lid to create a fake crease; another across the top lash line; and a third under the bottom lash line, a few centimeters below where you’d expect it to be. High concept, yes. But the execution was right on.

Photo: Marcio Madeira

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