August 30 2014

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Backstage Beauty Déjà Vu At The CFDAs


The CFDA flashbulbs, tented red carpet, and accompanying street blockades outside Alice Tully Hall on 65th Street last night were enough to intrigue even the least fashion-minded passerby. But the grandstand erected around the corner on Broadway showcasing 60 models, 20 girls each in the Fall collections of the Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees, with runway hair and makeup to match, was downright traffic-stopping. “We had literally two hours to do all 60 girls,” MAC Cosmetics’ James Kaliardos said after the storm had passed and he and Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul could exhale. The old friends were charged with the task of re-creating the backstage beauty from Narciso Rodriguez and Rodarte’s presentations, as well as Marc Jacobs’ eighties spectacular, which struck us as the most difficult of the three to replicate. “I just tried to keep the black structure,” Kaliardos said of his version of François Nars’ epic turn at the Armory. He crafted a thick black cat-eye shape on all 20 Marc Jacobs models and filled them out with MAC pigments in varying shades of teal, kelly green, yellow, and fuchsia. For time purposes, each girl got a silver lip courtesy of MAC Pro Color Base in Birchbark, rather than the individual shades that Nars whipped up in February. Paul, for his part, executed the tri-colored chignons from Rodarte’s “deconstructed, reconstructed” show using different shades of Bumble and Bumble hair powder; got the Narciso slicked-back wet look with an aerosol version of the brand’s Holding Spray; and managed a near perfect rendition of some of Guido Palau’s most ambitious shapes at Marc—including our personal favorite, the “flame head.” Unwilling to speculate as to who he thought was going to take home the big prize, Paul did extrapolate on the state of beauty at the moment. “These shows were great examples of all the options women have with hair and makeup these days,” he said. “You can pull subtler pieces from each idea, so it’s really anything goes when the whistle blows. What a great time to be a woman.”

Photo: Sherly Rabbani and Josephine Solimene

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