September 2 2014

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Anything But Red-Carpet Ready Backstage At Rodarte


East L.A. gang girls. Menacing condors. Maori tribeswomen. Makeup artist James Kaliardos rattled off all of these things at Rodarte yesterday, where he was attempting to create “the dark side of beauty.” With a charred black lip and a series of full-sleeve, half-sleeve, and neck tattoo designs courtesy of MAC senior artist Chantel Miller, his efforts were an overwhelming success. Starting with a minimal base, Kaliardos dabbed concealer under models’ eyes and brushed a dark mauve shadow on their lids for contour. Keeping everything “simple and strong,” he skipped the mascara and blush, and focused his energies on the lips, where he filled in the middle with strokes of MAC Lip Pencil in Beet and then used an angled brush dipped into MAC Pro Lipmix in black to line the rest of the mouth. Nail connoisseur Deborah Lippmann echoed Kaliardos’ trip to the dark side with her new “Funky Chunky,” a sheer, texturized black lacquer that goes on slightly more uniformly than Marquis Moon, the sequined silver shade she premiered at this show last season. As for the hair, Odile Gilbert explained her coifs in a single word: “Beautiful.” The stylist treated the models’ tresses with Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion to create a salt-water texture and then laid a piece of wool on top, spraying it with hairspray so that it adhered to the hair. Gilbert referenced Edward Curtis’ evocative images of the American West and Native Americans as the basis of the look, although her inspiration really came from the unique way the Mulleavys work with knitwear and the wholly different vantage point from which they approach their designs—a universal appreciation that resonated backstage.

Photo: Greg Kessler

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