Calling All The Real Girls
Last night at Marc Jacobs, makeup artist François Nars applied clumpy strokes of mascara to models’ lashes and used his fingers while adding minimal makeup to the rest of their faces to achieve a look that he called “off” and “destroyed.” He went as far as to recommend going to bed with your makeup on to re-create the “cool girl, Paris, East Village, Kate Moss” effect that he was going for, thus touching on a few of the recurring trends that have colored NYFW so far. Just don’t call it grunge. “Grunge is an easy copout,” Nars’ coiffing partner, Guido Palau, said of the backstage beauty look, which was meant to evoke a very intentional feeling of ease. “We’re trying to replicate a mood, not a style,” Palau continued, explaining that he used Redken’s Fabricate to create texture, trimming girls’ hair when needed. “Women have more trouble doing undone styles,” Palau added, pointing out that all you really need to properly work it on the runway and in reality is “the confidence to be who you are.” To hammer that point home, Jacobs cast his modeling brigade with character on the brain, giving a lot of no-name catwalkers—and girls he plucked off the street—a chance to make their Armory debut.