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April 23 2014

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Shadow Boxing On The Fall Runways

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Eye shadow has never been one of our go-to beauty items. Sure, we keep a drawer full of shimmering aquas, bright oranges, and metallic silvers on hand, but that’s more of a testament to a tendency to hoard than an inclination to wear them. But lid-layering is emerging as one of Fall’s biggest trends, so we may be grateful to our coffers yet. In contrast to the many nude, no-makeup looks that have dominated presentations in New York and London, a few makeup artists this season are opting for drama, taking pigment all the way up to the brow and dragging it underneath the lower lid, often in lieu of any eyeliner and/or mascara at all. Charlotte Tilbury championed this cause backstage at both DKNY and Pringle of Scotland, where she chose dark beiges and taupes to evoke a feeling of sullen antiquity—a sentiment that Pat McGrath echoed at Kinder Aggugini, where she used a rounded, shimmery “greige” eye to re-create what she described as a “Napoleonic” woman. The same technique has had flashier seventies moments as well. At Diane von Furstenberg, James Kaliardos paid tribute to Studio 54 by blending blue and green iridescent pigments and MAC’s 3-D Glitter in Silver into a strong, glossy black eye, while Diane Kendal channeled Sarah Moon photos and vintage Cacharel backstage at Carolina Herrera, using four different purple eye shadows on top of MAC’s Lipliner in Night Moth, which she scrawled across models’ lids for hold. We’ll let you know if there are other noteworthy sightings in Milan and Paris, so we can all get a head start on some necessary at-home trial and error before next season rolls around.

Clockwise from top left, Bebeto Matthews / AP Photo at DKNY; Ian Gavan / Getty Images at Pringle of Scotland; Greg Kessler / FirstView.com at DVF and Carolina Herrera; Chiaki Nozu / WireImage / Getty Images at Kinder Aggugini.

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