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August 29 2014

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Sleeping Beauties At Rodarte

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When we arrived backstage at Rodarte yesterday, makeup artist James Kaliardos was doing a little promotion for Karen Elson, who was sitting in his chair. “Tell us about your new album, Karen,” he said, but the flame-haired model-turned-singer was willing to divulge little except to say that it was “spooky.” So was the makeup look. “We’re entering the spirit world here,” Kaliardos said, adding words like “sleepwalking” and “Mexican border towns” to the equation. That heady mix evolved into very paled-out skin and a shiny, iridescent cheekbone, not cheek. “I’m not into blush anymore,” Kaliardos said, echoing makeup artist’s Charlotte Tilbury’s similar distaste for rosy cheeks for Fall. “This is a neglected part of the face, but I’m bringing it back,” he said of models’ temples and facial contours, along which he dabbed MAC’s Pigment in Kitchmas for an ethereal, iridescent effect. A metallic mauve-y/lilac eye courtesy of MAC eye shadows in Quarry and Silver Ring completed the “dreamscape” that Kaliardos was building. For her part, hairstylist Odile Gilbert was just interested in creating something “clean and proper,” sculpting deep side parts that were slicked back with Aveda Control Force hair spray and held in place with oxidized copper floral hair pins that the Mulleavy sisters designed for the occasion. When we asked Gilbert how many pins each girl was allotted, she had this to say: “It depends who they are. If they are a top model they get a lot. You need to know how to work them.” Hierarchy exists even in the subconscious, it turns out.

Photo: Greg Kessler / FirstView.com; Amina Bobb / AP Photo

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