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April 20 2014

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“Trashy With Dignity” At Zac Posen

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Zac Posen shifted his attention from red-carpet gowns to easy-wearing, up-all-night party pieces yesterday at the Altman building, and he instructed his makeup and hair teams to follow suit. For face-painting phenom Stéphane Marais, the new direction conjured images of young women who are trendy and chic. “She’s modern, but her makeup isn’t perfect because then she looks too bourgeois—I wanted it to be elegant and fierce,” he said. In makeup terms, this translated to smudged black eyeliner, which we’ve been seeing a lot of for Fall (an homage to an undone look popularized by Kate Moss, whose hard-partying beauty secrets have been inspiring backstage looks all week). Marais’ version was heavy on itinerant dashes of onyx pigment that he blended with his finger for a “melted” effect. “Trashy with dignity,” he called his handiwork, which included a transparent red lip stain blocked out with concealer on most of the lip line so that the color only popped in the center. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert’s loose, middle-parted waves were a bit more soft and structured, which added the class factor here to properly appeal to the uptown-minded downtown set that Posen usually caters to.

Photo: Greg Kessler / FirstView.com

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