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August 22 2014

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Backstage At Dries, The Best Kind Of Minimalism

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With the Paris shows officially under way, our one burning beauty question has been answered: Yes, nineties minimalism has in fact made the trip from Milan, where it was a carryover effect from both London and New York. Despite a few dips into sixties hair territory at Rochas and Giles yesterday, barefaced looks reigned at Nicolas Andreas Taralis and Limi Feu—not to mention Dries Van Noten, where makeup artist Peter Philips has perfected the no-frills face over the past few seasons. But leave it to Philips to stake his claim on the familiar territory for Fall by adding a dash of extraordinary to what has become a general trend toward the ordinary. Like Linda Cantello at Armani, Philips chose to make his statement with the brow, adding an extra element to an otherwise plain approach by penciling in a sharp, short black line and blending it seamlessly into the natural curvature of models’ arches. You could barely see the precision of his handiwork on the runway, where the additional step served to bring a subtle strength to the face, without detracting from the clothes. And that’s what’s great about Philips’ work: Even his simplest ideas have impact.

Photo: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse / FirstView.com

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