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Stéphane Marais Prefers to Stay Outside The Lines

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We’ve already talked at length about eye shadow’s dominance on the Fall runways, but after seeing some interesting liner work at Jean Paul Gaultier on Saturday, we thought we’d take a minute to ruminate on pencils and liquid fine-point pens. While cat-eyes in varying thicknesses have shown up at many shows, we were dealing with something else entirely at Gaultier. “[His] collection was influenced by the world traveler,” Guido Palau mentioned backstage, where his job was made easy by a slew of hats and turbans, leaving only four girls with visible undone side ponytails to work with. That meant all impact had to come from the face, which was left in the hands of makeup artist extraordinaire Stéphane Marais. Marais chose to express this general globe-trotting aesthetic with a geometric eye, composed of a bleached brow and blended strokes of black eye kohl. The first thing we thought when we saw the look wasn’t so much international wanderer as Zac Posen. Although cleaner and more structured, the design reminded us of the “trashy with dignity” peepers Marais cooked up for Posen last month in New York, using short, deliberately smudged black dashes to create his desired effect. Who says eyeliner should be confined to the lash line, anyway?

Photo: Greg Kessler / FirstView.com; Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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