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July 30 2014

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Backstage At Dries, Promises Of A Verdant Spring

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As anyone familiar with Chanel’s Fall 2009 smash Jade polish already knows, Peter Philips, the house’s global creative director of makeup, has a way of working with off-kilter colors like green and making them even more desirable than, say, red or pink—hues you may more readily associate with makeup. He did it again at Dries Van Noten yesterday, where a shade of hand-mixed, minty-lime pigment was custom-blended for the show to evoke a sense of incipient spring. It was subtle—barely noticeable from afar, save for a lovely highlight that emanated from the brow bone, underneath which Philips had swiped the homespun shadow. That impact, slight as it was, mostly came from the juxtaposition of the thin celery line and those near perfect complexions, which Philips treated to Chanel’s Pro Lumière Professional Finish Makeup and a dusting of its Poudre Universelle Libre. Lips and nails were left bare to avoid a potentially “retro” effect, but the face painter added another twist to the look by instructing that models’ toes be coated in Chanel’s Holographic, an iridescent chrome varnish that picked up a similar finish in Dries’ shoes and clutches—and continues to elude us. The polish was never released in the States, but we continue to hold out hope that one day, Philips will surprise us with some kind of limited-edition lacquer reissue that we would hoard among our most prized possessions.

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