September 1 2014

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In The Mood For High Hair, Backstage At Vera Wang


We’ve seen our fair share of middle-parted down ‘dos this week, but the high-hair movement that dominated for Fall will still be in effect come Spring if Vera Wang has anything to say about it. Adding to the sixties theme that’s pervaded the New York shows, the designer asked Lucia Pieroni and hairstylist Jimmy Paul to channel the Wong Kar-wai-directed film In the Mood for Love, which was set in 1962 Hong Kong. This meant “slightly geisha/kabuki-looking” updos combined with the era’s huge, teased-out twists and tucks, according to Paul, who saturated strands with Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray to get a workable texture before rough-drying. Teasing the entire head, Paul created deep side parts and pulled hair back so it still slightly covered the ears before fashioning tiny French twists or faux bobs in the back. “It’s meant to look messy,” Paul said as he finished off his coifs with Bumble and Bumble’s Does It All Hairspray. Pieroni was also vibing on the sixties, but, she said, “without the eyeliner.” Instead, her goal was to create reflection. “It’s supposed to be about highlight and shine,” she continued as she applied pink, baby blue, and silver shimmer shadows along models’ lids and around the outer corner of their eyes using the colors in her new Ombré Couleur Quadric for Clé de Peau in #207, which will bow in March. It was clean, simple, sparkling, and gorgeous—words Wang’s bridal acolytes (Chelsea Clinton among them) are plenty familiar with.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

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