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August 2 2014

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Seventies Glam Trumps The Sixties Backstage at Marc Jacobs

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Just when we thought the sixties were going to be NYFW’s lasting backstage impression, Marc Jacobs showed up to offer a different point of view (per usual). That’d be the seventies. The decade has been around for a few seasons but had yet to see its full look—the big hair, the glam eye, the deep lip—realized in one blowout beauty moment. “Marc wanted the girls to look as though they wreaked of perfume,” hairstylist Guido Palau said of the decadent “seventies-cum-thirties” coifs he served up, prepping tresses with Redken’s Thickening Lotion and rough-drying before churning out three different variations of tight waves and brushed-out curls—or “Grace Coddington frizz,” as he described the soft mass of pinned-back texture. Side parts à la Jerry Hall and color bursts from faux flowers finished things off. Makeup maestro François Nars added Anjelica Huston and Pat Cleveland to the list of inspirational muses, modernizing a glossy, metallic green eye and strong rosy cheek with transparent skin. Starting with a base of his Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer topped off with his best-selling blush in Orgasm, Nars’ main objective was luxe lids, which he built by layering the green shade in his forthcoming Nouveau Monde Eyeshadow Duo with the dark emerald Night Porter single Eyeshadow, before lining lashes and the inner corners of the eyes with his Soft Touch Eye Pencil in Celebrate, a neon green. A slick of Vaseline across the verdant pigments provided that disco-dancing glisten you may have noticed twinkling on the catwalk, and a deep wine-stained lip, courtesy of NARS’ new Pure Matte Lipstick in Volga (one of our personal faves), pulled everything together. As for those bleached brows, which have finally hit our shores after a few seasons of dominance in Europe, Jacobs enlisted model-favorite colorist Laurie Foley to lighten arches on site using Wella’s Blondor Lightening Powder. And to hammer home the no-cutting-corners, full-on look that he was going for, the designer chose CND’s deep bordeaux-tinged Bloodline lacquer for models’ toes only. That’s how you wear a strappy cork wedge in 2011, in case you were wondering.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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