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September 1 2014

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Seventies-Meets-Thirties Backstage At Zac Posen

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Should you have been confused by all the marabou, the cutouts, and that oddly placed neckerchief in look three at Zac Posen’s spring show this morning, his go-to makeup artist, Kabuki, offered up an explanation. “The show is about playful glamour with a touch of eccentricity, inspired in part by the late Seventies and a young Diana Vreeland in the thirties,” he told us backstage. This meant pink pigment on lids and cheeks for a “floral and rosy—almost seashell” effect that the face painter created using MAC Pigment in Vanilla on the inner corners of the eye, blended outwards into its Pigment in Fuchsia, which was diffused to the temple. MAC’s Fluid Line Eyeliner Gel in Blacktrack rimmed the upper and lower lash lines to frame said elaborate shadow job, which was further showcased by its Zoomblack Mascara and extra eyelashes that were drawn onto the skin with eyeliner. “That’s the eccentric part,” Kabuki said of the look, which he tweaked with an orangey/red pout topped off with a coat of clear gloss.

“A labor of love,” is how Posen himself described his collection as he weaved in and out of the backstage area—and “labor” is a word hairstylist Jimmy Paul would likely attest to. “We tried a million things and then I did this post-disco rockabilly look and it all came together,” Paul said of the pompadour-esque updos he created by fashioning deep side parts, pulling hair up at the hairline and then sweeping the excess into a ponytail or a bun. His secret? “Lots and lots and lots of hairspray”—particularly Bumble & Bumble Spray de Mode and its B&b Shine Spray for a polished finish.

Photo: Eric Ryan / Getty Images

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