EXCLUSIVE: Backstage At Chanel Couture, A Decidedly Un-Retro Cat-Eye Debuts
As pointed out by our intrepid runway reporter, Tim Blanks, Karl Lagerfeld was in the mood for light at his Chanel Spring Couture presentation this afternoon, mandating gossamer fabrics, shimmering beads, and dresses with noticeable flow. The inspiration he gave the house’s global creative director of makeup, Peter Philips, followed suit. With a sketch from Lagerfeld in hand detailing a delicate, made-up face in shades of pinks, grays, and beiges, Philips built a glowing base using Chanel’s Vitalumiere Aqua foundation dusted with its Poudre Universelle Libre and contoured with a few well-appointed strokes of its Éclat Lumiere highlighting pen. Particularly eye-catching as Lagerfeld’s brigade of models—which included Stella Tennant and Kristen McMenamy—walked by was some interestingly placed blush, which Philips revealed to be his new Ombres Tissées in Beiges. “It’s a real treat,” he said of the peachy highlighter-cum-eye shadow that was created specifically for the show. Placed high on the cheekbones just underneath the lower lash line and blended toward the temples, the pinkish pigment anchored another striking detail: a peculiarly shaped black cat-eye. “It’s a playful twist,” Philips said of the blunt liner job, which was etched onto lids in a diagonal line using Chanel’s Stylo Yeux Waterproof long-lasting pencil in Ebène and inspired by the black ribbons Lagerfeld wrapped around models’ necks. Just don’t call it sixties. Philips said the oddly short, unexpectedly thick liner job was intentional, and designed to “take the makeup look away from retro.” Now you know.