Eyes Like African Sunsets, Backstage At Thakoon
There was so much going on backstage at Thakoon, it’s hard to know where to begin. That’s what happens when you combine influences as far-flung as Marie Antoinette and the Masai. But we appreciated the overstimulation in a season that has, thus far, featured fairly tame hair and makeup. “It’s like knitting,” coiffing star Odile Gilbert said as she wove sections of the models’ hair over “wool materials” that had been taken directly from the collection. Prepping tresses with Kérastase Nutritive Nectar Thermique, Gilbert dried hair, slathering it with Kérastase Chroma Riche Fluide for shine before beginning a mixed-medium layering process that resulted in a basketweave beehive of chunky knits. A halo of Kérastase Double Force Controle Ultime Hairspray kept everything in place, as models made their way over to fashion’s favorite colorist, Laurie Foley, who was busy bleaching brows. “I’m here to make them go away,” she said of models’ disappearing arches. “I’m not necessarily a proponent,” she opined of the lightening process, “but it’s a show thing, and a showoff thing. It lets them show off.” The them in question being Gilbert and makeup artist Diane Kendal. And show off Kendal did, with a bright palette of orange, pink, and red eye shadows. “I thought about African sunsets,” Kendal explained, coating lids in NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Dragon Girl, a sheer red, to hold a mélange of NARS Eyeshadows in place, including Taj Mahal (a bright tangerine), Desire (a hot fuchsia), and Exhibit A (an electric cerise). Kendal laid off lashes and lips to keep the focus on the eye. “It’s fun,” she said of the finished look. And how.