Graphic And Girly, Backstage At D&G
In case you somehow missed it, what with all the fun-with-fonts prints, plastic charm necklaces, and sneakers with wedge heels (on the runway!), the theme at D&G for Fall was “street couture,” according to Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce’s reigning makeup mistress, Pat McGrath. A requisite “graphic” eye followed suit, which McGrath drew onto models’ upper lash lines in a thick stroke with a sixties flick at the outer corners using Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup Crayon Intense Eyeliner in #5 Black. To add depth and brightness, McGrath etched its Crayon Intense Eyeliner in #13 White along the inner rim of the lower lash line before turning to her trusty tube of mascara and her increasing, somewhat out-of-character reliance on brow pencils and powders (see Sui, Anna; Mendel, J.; and Prada for further evidence that the queen of the bleached brow may be changing her ways). Cheeks were lightly carved out with a soft swipe of blush along cheekbones, and lips were left natural to maintain the image of a “modern young woman”—who happens to have a thing for nail polish. Tips were painted in a rainbow of colors, including orange-red, bright yellow, and metallic purple (as evidenced above) to coordinate with the designers fluoro-centric collection.
As for the hair, coiffing star Sam McKnight took a page out of Guido Palau’s book at Rag & Bone, washing models’ strands on site with Pantene’s Color Preserve shampoo and middle-parting them to provide the light, airy texture clean hair takes on before it gets bogged down with product. A laborious undertaking, no doubt, but one that yields a fresh, finished product that moves quite well as it sashays down the catwalk.