August 23 2014

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Grunge Gone Glamourous, Backstage at Altuzarra


“Kate Moss in her Johnny Depp days, meets Oasis, meets couture.” That was the unlikely amalgamation we were presented with when we arrived backstage at Altuzarra last night. “In a very precise way, Joseph went a little all over the place,” makeup artist Tom Pecheux surmised of the situation. “He’s no longer a young designer, which we had to reflect with the makeup.” He did so by focusing his attention on a graphic eye. “Everything is powder,” he said of the mix of MAC eye shadows in Keep Your Cool, a dark steely brown, and Lady Grey, a slate, that he dusted over lids, using the latter shade to draw a point across the upper lash line toward the temple. Dipping a wet brush into silver pigment, Pecheux crafted a metallic triangle on the inner corners of models’ eyes to resemble what he described as “chrome tears.” Big, filled-in brows and inner-eye rims colored with MAC PRO Chromagraphic Pencil in Rich Purple made eyes pop, while a “very bourgeois” deep crimson lip, courtesy of MAC Lipstick in Diva, finished the face.

To throw off the collection’s “Johnny and Kate forever” youthfulness, Frédérice Fekkai hairstylist Paul Hanlon went for couture hair. “It has a plasticky texture to make it now,” hairstylist Tina Outen said of the molded updo, which started with a coating of Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting and Texturizing Spray Gel. Once tresses set, Hanlon and his team took to “destroying it” by pulling out pieces and adding fuzziness. The combination was indeed all over the place. But everything came together, as it so often does when beauty’s and fashion’s great minds collide.

Photo: Stefan Gosatti / Getty Images

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