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September 2 2014

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Helmut Newton Goes To The Disco, Backstage At Roksanda Ilincic

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The dark lips? The sculpted cheeks? The sheer, smoldering eyes? Helmet Newton references were indeed afoot backstage at Roksanda Ilincic yesterday, where makeup artist Lucia Pica was channeling the photographer’s special brand of severe glamour. “Sophisticated and groomed, but not too pretty,” Pica elaborated, dragging MAC Fluidline Eyeliner Gel in Blacktrack along both the top and bottom lash lines and extending her brushstroke out toward models’ temples to create an elongated shape. For her next trick, Pica coated lids with MAC Eyeshadow in Cork, a sepia brown shade that enhances the natural color of the skin, before turning her attention to cheeks, which were sculpted with off-kilter shades of foundation and highlighted with a few finger dabs of MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Shell. As for that showstopping lip, Pica hand-blended an assortment of glosses with MAC Lipstick in Film Noir for a high-shine, deep berry finish—the first burgundy-hued pout we’ve seen thus far this season and the same shade that inspired manicurist Sophy Robson’s copper-tinged bordeaux nails. It was all delectably nineties with a slight seventies flair, thanks to long, loose waves that hairstylist Shon prepped with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam before middle-parting, setting for a curl, and brushing through.

Interestingly, a few girls turned up backstage with slightly bleached arches that Pica and Shon decided to leave as is, sending a mixed bag of brows onto the runway. Call us crazy, but we actually preferred the way the strong makeup and soft hair looked with the blocked-out forehead fringe. You too?

Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com

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