Schoolgirls Come Out To Play, Backstage At Prada
Day three of the Milan shows is in the books. The overlying trend we’re noticing thus far? Fur, obviously. The other? The sixties. First came the spider lashes and teased sets at Alberta Ferretti, and yesterday Miuccia Prada got on board with her own tribute to the decade’s childlike, ingenuous glamour, Mary Janes-cum-knee-high boots included. “It’s very girly, very young, exuding innocent sophistication,” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau said of the segmented ponytails he fashioned for the occasion with a nod to Catherine Deneuve in her Belle de Jour days. Creating two separate parts at the brow level, Palau finger-combed his newly formed top section, coating it with Redken’s Forceful 23 hair spray for hold and texture. Pulling out small pieces above the ears to hang separate from the rest of the hair, Palau gathered the lengths into a low ponytail, adding more hair spray and back-combing for additional texture before securing the look together with a long silver Goody barrette, a point of difference from the similar schoolgirl silhouette Orlando Pita whipped up at Derek Lam.
“Wide-eyed innocence” is how makeup artist Pat McGrath described the directive from Mrs. Prada, which gave her an interesting idea as far as the best way to draw attention to models’ peepers. Bucking her tendency to bleach arches once she touches down in Europe, McGrath filled in brows to directly correlate with the exact shade of models’ hair, establishing fluidity. Then she set to work creating a paled-out complexion to which she applied a single product: blush. A rosy hue not only graced cheeks, drawn outward toward the temple for a natural playing-in-the-schoolyard flush, but the pink pigment was also dusted across lids from the lash line to the brow bone and placed on top of toned-down lips to complete the natural, “I’m not interested in heavy makeup—yet” vibe. It was a departure from the highly stylized backstage looks we typically see here (opaque chrome eye shadow and thick, horizontal brows, anyone?) but refreshing as a result.