April 20 2014

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She’s Come Undone: “Mean” Makeup And Undone Hair At Prabal Gurung


Prabal Gurung’s Great Expectations-inspired collection made for an interesting backstage beauty muse. “She’s a lovely, romantic girl on her way to becoming a nasty witch,” said makeup artist Tom Pecheux. This meant buffed, porcelain skin and what Pecheux described as a “mean eye,” which centered on a diffused smokiness that was much more concentrated on the inner corners of the eye and dragged up toward the brow bone using MAC’s forthcoming Pro Longwear Eye Shadow in Legendary, a black powder with a hint of gold shimmer. Brows were filled in and left full while lashes were kept natural and devoid of mascara. The finishing touch came via MAC Lipstick in One of a Kind, a nude pink that’s new for fall, which Pecheux applied to models’ mouths and on top of eyelids. “It catches the light and looks romantic, but it could also look like she has an eye infection,” he quipped. Frédéric Fekkai hairstylist Didier Malige was going for something unkempt and “bohemian” with accents of pink or blue streaks buried beneath a mass of texture—a look he made famous back in 2009 when it first premiered at Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2010 show.

Prepping hair with Fekkai’s Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray, Malige added larger waves up front while keeping the back slightly ratted, as though “she’d slept on it last night.” It was a big departure from last season’s sleek silhouette, but one that worked surprisingly well with the déshabillé feel of Gurung’s clothes.

Photo: Jodi Jones / CTR / AP Photo