“Sick Smirks” Backstage At Antonio Marras
Antonio Marras’ fascination with proportions and recycled fabrics inspired the twisted forties makeup that made a lasting impression at his show yesterday. With the collection taking its cues from the designer’s mother in the late 1940′s, a giant mood board featuring Mama Marras in her prime was erected backstage, complete with collage cutouts of lips and eyes, which were taped on top of the images’ own features. It was a bizarre and slightly jarring sight, which wasn’t lost on makeup artist Lisa Butler, who chose to focus her energy on re-creating a similarly disproportionate, enlarged mouth. “I didn’t want to get stuck in the forties with the makeup so I immediately avoided plum shades. I took a classic shade and twisted it,” she said. She constructed a two-toned pout by painting a slick of MAC Lipstick in Runaway Red—a matte crimson due out for fall—on both top and bottom lips and adding a coat of its Lip Pencil in Genuine Orange on the bottom only. The tonal experiment also had an off-kilter shape. “It’s got a joker element,” Butler pointed out with pride. “We’ve tipped up the corners of the lips, which gives an impression of a sick smirk, almost like we’ve drawn on a smile—it’s just a bit weird!” And how. But in a season that has offered up more straightforward red lipstick applications than we have room to mention here, weird is where it’s at.