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July 31 2014

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Streaks Of Genius, Backstage At Fendi

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If you thought colored hair streaks were on their way out after hitting their peak for Spring 2010, think again. We’ve already seen them at Prabal Gurung, Tracy Reese, Theyskens’ Theory, and Jeremy Scott for Fall and today they turned up at Fendi, where coiffing star Sam McKnight was working teal, golden yellow, dark raspberry, and red extensions into complex updos. Referencing the high collars Karl Lagerfeld sent down the runway, McKnight prepped his “gothic” strands with Sebastian Mousse Forte to add guts and thickness to the hair, adding single strips of color near models’ hairlines that were swept up into “structured and severe” rolls reminiscent of a Hitchcock heroine. Part twist, part chignon, part slept-in/after-party hair, the whole thing was kept together with copious amounts of Pantene hair spray.

“Moody” makeup courtesy of Peter Philips complemented McKnight’s disheveled, off-kilter sets and featured seriously smoldering lids that came in both shimmering charcoal and aubergine incarnations. Following Lagerfeld’s directive to “focus on the eyes,” Philips blended the creamy pigments from Chanel’s new-for-fall Illusion d’Ombre eye shadows all the way up to models’ brow bones, lining the inner rims with its Eye Kohl in Clair (a light beige) to help keep things bright amid all the smokiness. A light dusting of Chanel’s forthcoming Joues Contraste Blush in Rose Ecrin added a slight flush to the outer edges of models’ cheekbones, while a finger-dabbing of its Pro Lumière Foundation toned down lips. Might it be a call for a similarly styled Daphne Guinness to take her signature skunk stripe in a new, more colorful direction? Only time will tell.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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