“80 Percent Glamour, 20 Percent Spooky,” Backstage At Rick Owens
“Please drink with straws!” came the desperate pleas from casting directors backstage at Rick Owens, where makeup artist Lucia Pieroni was painting on a painstakingly perfect red lip. “It’s 80 percent glamour, 20 percent spooky,” Pieroni said of the look—the outline of MAC Lip Pencil in Redd and the slashing of its Lipstick in Lady Danger being the glamorous part, and the bleached brows acting as the spooky bit. “I’ve been kind of getting into the bushy, Brooke Shields brows [this season] because we’re so used to seeing bleach,” she went on, adding her two cents to the season’s ongoing brow discourse. “But it’s not really about trends, it’s about what looks good,” she continued, referencing her blocked-out arches that, to be fair, worked well with the bevy of hoods Owens sent out onto the runway. We actually appreciated the technique here, because with Luigi Murenu’s structured, “modern couture,” slicked-back coifs and the abundance of nun habits-cum-haute headgear, peering into an eerily bare face with nothing except a vivid crimson lip just seemed to make sense. The downside of brow bleaching, however—that it can strip girls of their personality and instead render them a unified, extraterrestrial tribe—became abundantly clear when we crossed paths with Karlie Kloss. There’s usually no missing Kloss—her towering six-foot stature, stunning bone structure, and winning smile typically put her heads and shoulders above crowds of her cohorts. We actually had to do a double take to realize it was her, though, as without those signature dark, pointed brows, she’s just—dare we say—another model. Luckily, her inimitable walk made it easy to identify her once the show finally started.