A Metallic Moment Backstage At Chanel
The Chanel show always offers up a well-choreographed example of how the connection between high fashion and beauty can be a seamless one. Karl Lagerfed tells his go-to face painter, Peter Philips, about his sartorial vision—the fabrics, the colors, the themes (which for Fall included a dark forest equipped with dancing shadows and breaks of light)—and Philips doesn’t just oblige with a corresponding makeup look, he actually makes products to properly fit the bill. This season, it was all about metallics. “It’s just communication,” Philips says of the unique designer/makeup artist relationship. “Karl said he wanted silver,” and so Philips turned to Épatant, a gunmetal shade from his new-for-autumn Illusion d’Ombre cream eye shadow collection, which he mixed with two of the range’s other shimmering shades in white and black to create the focal point of the look. “They come with an applicator, but I prefer to use my finger,” Philips said of the mousse-y pigments, which can go on thick for opacity or sheered out for transparency. “You can actually use it as an eyeliner, too,” he pointed out—dipping an angled brush into the sparkling onyx pot and scrawling it across the upper lash line. A similar smudged line was drawn using Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Eyeliner in Ébène below the lower lash line before Philips whipped on a few coats of its Inimitable Waterproof mascara in Noir. Finishing touches came in the form of a pinkish nude lip from Philips’ forthcoming Rouge Allure lipstick offerings and a ten-finger salute to the gray/gold Graphite, the latest addition to the Chanel nail polish arsenal.
Lagerfeld has a similar rapport with coiffeur Sam McKnight. “Karl always sends a sketch,” McKnight said of the inspiration behind his “simple little side knots.” Prepping hair with Frédéric Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel, McKnight created side parts, adding a slight bend with a curling iron and then letting hair fall out in wisps around the back of the head, where he gathered the remaining lengths into a loose chignon. “We’re keeping it young and fresh,” he said, spraying a halo of Pantene Classic Hairspray for hold—and also embodying the boy-meets-girl trend Lagerfeld successfully interpreted on the runway. Half of the loose, tomboy twists were embellished with Chanel jewelry baubles so there was an elegance at play to balance out all those biker boots.