At Dolce, Girls Who Are Boys Who Like Boys To Be Girls
In a season that has featured its fair share of masculine hair looks (see Ruffian, Preen, Louise Gray, and Missoni for starters), it took a Dolce & Gabbana show toward the end of Milan to offer up a different point of view on coiffing androgyny. Redken creative consultant Guido Palau provided a compare-and-contrast opportunity by sculpting not one but two different looks for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s glam rock show: a boyish French twist with a gelled quiff and a loose, twisted, “very matronly and womanly” chignon. “It’s how I would imagine a Sicilian woman to put her hair up for the day,” Palau said of the girlier style, for which he coated strands with Redken Layer Lift 07 for extra body before setting them in four large rollers for volume. Two side tendrils joined in the back of models’ heads and gathered into a loose bun finished the look.
We found ourselves more drawn to the mannish updos, however, as in combination with makeup artist Pat McGrath’s strong brows and carved out cheeks, even Natasha Poly looked like a gender-bender. Prepping hair with a generous helping of Redken Structure Wax 17 Classic Styling Wax, Palau divided tresses into two sections, pinning a classic French twist vertically above the nape of the neck and leaving small “bits” out on both sides, which—get this—he coated with more of the styling wax to create faux sideburns! (Palau is nothing if not a showman.) The top section was then molded into a fifties-era pompadour to impart a tough edge onto even the most delicate features.