Chocolate Brown Lips And Tips, Backstage At Loewe
“Don’t forget to put concealer on the mouths,” Pat McGrath reminded her face-painting team as she wove in and out of the makeup stations backstage at Loewe. “It’s an old trick; it really helps.” Helps what, exactly? Securing a perfectly matte mouth, which is what McGrath had in store for Stuart Vevers’ Fall show. The flat finish we’ve seen before; McGrath’s color choice, however, was something of a revelation. “Chocolate brown,” she called it, pointing out that instead of going the traditional red route to achieve an ultra-luxurious look, Vevers wanted to try something different. Doing away with the traditional black smoky eye, as most makeup artists have been wont to do this season, McGrath embraced a brown incarnation that we’ve seen repeatedly over the last month, which she pointed out is the perfect complement to a strong lip. Filled-in brows and a slight contour complemented Guido Palau’s graphic, sleek chignons, which were prepped with Redken Hardwear 16 Super Strong Gel, swept into a super-high pony, fastened into a knot, and covered with leather hairpins designed by Vevers.
The entire look was supremely polished, right down to the nails, which came courtesy of London’s own Sophy Robson. “[Stuart] gave me some leather and asked me if I could make the nails look like that,” Robson explained of the matte brown extensions she whipped up for the occasion with black French tips painted across the top. Robson, who is a fan of custom mixing her lacquers and will do so with everything from Revlon and Chanel to off-brand drugstore varnishes, was set on making matte glamorous by putting it onto longer nails than we’re used to seeing backstage. “These nails need to look expensive!” she quipped. And they did—albeit in a super-cool, I’m-definitely-going-to-try-this-when-I-get-home kind of way.