September 1 2014

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Innocent Boys As Girls, Backstage At Giambattista Valli


Rather than beat around the bush when describing yet another example of Fall’s masculine/feminine beauty trend at Giambattista Valli, makeup artist Val Garland called a spade a spade: “It’s a real innocent boy,” she deadpanned of the “neat” faces she was painting backstage. But as anyone who feels naked without a stitch of concealer or foundation knows, neat doesn’t necessarily imply makeup-free. Coating skin with MAC Strobe Liquid to bring a dewy highlight to her correcting pigments, Garland smudged its Cream Colour Base in Shell over lids before creating custom color schemes for both brunettes and blondes. Darker-haired girls got MAC Eye Pencil in Coffee along the inner rim of their lower lash line and its Lipstick in Peachstock for “a little definition,” while blondes were treated to MAC Pro Chromographic Pencil in WW15, a taupe—as well as a similarly hued pout, courtesy of MAC Pro Longwear Lipcreme in Overtime. Both mouths got a dose of its Cremesheen Glass for a lacquered effect. “[Giambattista] likes to see sheen,” Garland said of the designer while reaching for the bottle of Strobe Liquid again and applying it to exposed limbs.

Hairstylist Orlando Pita added to the season’s continuing discourse on ponytails by introducing a deeply parted, half-up, half-down, side-slung version (“parting it in the middle would have been too normal,” the coiffing star explained of his decision to go askew). “Graphic, sculptural, and androgynous” were Valli’s directives, which Pita interpreted by prepping strands with a small amount of L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Fix Design Spray. “I can use it like a gel or like a hair spray,” he explained of the versatile spritz, which gave tresses a touch of texture before they were flat-ironed straight. As far as why we’re seeing so many ponytails, Pita has a theory: the better to accommodate the wealth of fur collars on the runway, of course.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

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