August 21 2014

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Liner Notes For Fall


It all started at the Couture shows in January. Peter Philips scrawled a deliberately short, thick, almost awkward line across models’ top lash lines at Chanel to “take the makeup look away from retro,” and a new era of unexpected liner applications had officially begun. Since then, the concept has been all over the Fall shows. At Marc Jacobs’ dominatrix extravaganza in New York, François Nars called his similar flicks “droopy,” comparing the downward sloping line he drew onto upper lash lines with his new for fall Larger Than Life Longwear Eyeliner in Via Venetto to “a grandmother who’s a bit eccentric that puts on her eyeliner wrong.”

Flash forward to Milan, and a whole range of unique adaptations of the sixties makeup essential were employed to keep the plethora of references to that era from becoming too literal. At D&G, Pat McGrath added white to the equation, coating the inner rim of the lower lash line with Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup Crayon Intense Eyeliner in #13 White to add a modern, graphic touch to the thick black stroke on lids. A few hours later at Moschino, Tom Pecheux turned to MAC Technakohl liner in Graphblack to draw an oval shape that swept underneath the lower lash line and almost extended to the brow bone to resemble cat-eye sunglasses. “It looks like every girl is wearing them on the catwalk whether she is or not,” he quipped, topping the outline with a dusting of MAC Single Matte eye shadow in Carbon for opacity. On Sunday, it was Lucia Pieroni’s turn at Missoni, and she focused her attention on crafting an elongated black smudge along lower lash lines only using the same MAC Technakohl liner at Missoni to help hammer home the idea of “cool girls who are slightly masculine.”

As far as our favorite incarnation goes, it’s a tie. Yesterday at Giorgio Armani, the house’s resident face painter, Linda Cantello, etched two parallel lines extended toward the temple from the outer corners of models’ eyes for a look that was inspired by “the boudoir,” while Peter Philips brought things full circle at Jil Sander. Rather than extrapolate on the trend with a new shape, he chose to introduce a new color: a shimmering, blue-reen jade. And on to Paris, we go…

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

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