“Redefining Chic,” Backstage at Rochas
“It is winter,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman quipped backstage at Rochas, where he was fashioning yet another “handsome,” masculine-inspired hairdo to add to his growing Fall repertoire. (Souleiman has been one of the coiffeurs responsible for the trend’s ascendance, giving it a similar spotlight at both Narciso Rodriguez and Missoni.) But cold, harsh weather aside, Souleiman had another suggestion as to why much of the hair establishment has shied away from pretty this season. “We’ve superseded the glamorous look,” he proposed. “The wind machine and the wavy hair are over. We’re redefining chic.”
To make that point all the more clear, Souleiman took his inspiration from an old post-grunge Jil Sander campaign starring Guinevere van Seenus that was hanging from Marco Zanini’s inspiration board, which manifest itself into a “front that looks like a GQ man” with a sleek updo in back. Prepping hair with Wella Perfect Setting lotion and applying heat, Souleiman coated strands in its Velvet Amplifier serum and created a deep, side-parted ridge before securing a square-shaped twist into an anchor of coiled braids.
Staying in line with Souleiman’s goal to “make chic minimal,” makeup artist Lucia Pieroni kept things simple, albeit striking. Most impressive were the full, “boyish” brows she filled in using MAC eye shadows in Omega, Copper, and Technographic. “These are the best,” she said of the powders’ blendable consistency, which allowed her to mix shades to match individual brow color and create softer lines. Also of note was the brown greasy eye she painted onto lids using the metallic coffee color from Clé de Peau’s forthcoming collection of cream eye shadows. “It’s more like shading,” she said of the light dusting of pigment she topped off with MAC clear lip gloss, which also adorned the tops of cheekbones for a sheer, dewy highlight. Lips were treated to a slathering of Homeoplasmine for a concentrated dose of hydration and then coated with Clé de Peau lipstick in T9, a peachy nude. If this is the new chic, we’re all for it.