“Severe” Ponies And Lessons In Lashes At Ungaro
“I could do a book on ponytails,” Guido Palau joked backstage at Emanuel Ungaro, where he was fashioning yet another iteration of Fall’s favorite updo. It’s not a bad idea, seeing as how he is at least partly responsible for the style’s evolution from its super-sleek days as a mainstay at Calvin Klein to the “mod, but a little tougher” texturized tails at Celine this week.
At Ungaro, it was the “dominatrix ponytail,” which Palau debuted at Marc Jacobs. Coating strands with Redken Hardwear 16 Super Strong gel, he gathered hair on the top of the head, binding it with elastic, covering the base with a rectangle of black leather, and binding it again for a “severe” effect. “Higher! Tighter!” he advised his team.
“A little bit fetish, a little bit S&M” is how face-painting favorite Lucia Pieroni described the accompanying makeup look, which was all about the lashes. “Giles was strict with the red lip. This girl is wilder,” Pieroni said of Deacon’s two sartorial stories this season while breaking out tray upon tray of false lashes. After applying multiple swipes of MAC Zoom Lash mascara for a “cloggy, blocky” effect, Pieroni layered MAC Eyelashes in #8 (“long and spiky”) with #1 (“short and fat”) for length and density. She gave us a pro tip for proper adhesion, too: “surgical glue. Only a little bit. If the fake lashes are too wet, it’s a big problem. They have to be tacky.”
Adding to the fetish feeling were long red nails, taped on and filed off by Sophy Robson. “They’re talons!” Alana Zimmer said of Robson’s preferred length—or, “tapered, glamorous Tom Ford nails,” as Robson herself called them. It was a celeb-staple shoe designer who inspired her custom-mixed scarlet varnish, though. “I matched it to a Louboutin,” she exclaimed, referencing those signature scarlet soles.