August 27 2014

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The Alluring Aromas Of Technique Indiscrete


In addition to the scores of fashion presentations that took over the Jardin des Tuileries this past week, the Paris sur Mode trade show offered up yet another tent full of fashion fancy for the style set to enjoy. Among the booths of apparel and accessory designers was a lone perfumer named Libertin Louison.

Since starting his own fragrance line, Technique Indiscrete, two years ago, the Belgian-born Louison’s star has been on the rise. A former couturier, Louison left the rag trade behind him to enroll at Paris’ esteemed Cinquième Sens, where he honed his skills as a perfumer. “I hate the ego,” he said of his reasons for leaving fashion behind him and embracing the olfactory arts. Of course there is the slightest bit of self-aggrandizing in designing fragrances, particularly when you’re culling your own memories for inspiration. “I try to make a translation of an aspiration or a feeling,” he told us of his seven different eaux, all of which are sensorial explorations of specific people, moments, and places. Santa Subita, for example, comes from the smell of Saint Catherine’s Orthodox church in Brussels, where Libertin was moved by the aroma of wood and dust and incense and myrrh when formulating his citrus, cedar, patchouli, and benzoin scent. Sarfan Nobile stems from a similarly personal place. Concocted from the essences of a friend’s incredibly lavish Indian wedding, it boasts hints of orange, cardamom, anise, jasmine, saffron, and vanilla. Other scents are more whimsical still, like Veloutine, which packs notes of French violet, red fruits, rose, leather, and musk in homage to Barbara Cartland, Lady Di’s eccentric step-grandmother who had pink hair, a pink poodle, and always wore violet perfumes from Toulouse. The collection is stocked at Jovoy, Paris’ recently opened outpost for all things niche and fragrant which, despite its proximity to the beauty offerings at Colette, is becoming a shopping destination in and of itself.

Up next for Technique Indiscrete are three new colognes, wider distribution for its collection of Eaux d’Habit(a) (fragrances for your clothes and your home), teas, candles, lip balms, and maybe even a fashion show. “Fashion designers make perfume for money,” Louison says. “I might come back to fashion to make a balance for my perfumes.” In the meantime, look for the brand to become a whole lot more visible. When we left him this week, Louison was prepping for sales meetings with and Lane Crawford in Shanghai.

Photo: Courtesy of Technique Indiscrete

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