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April 19 2014

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The Lips Have It, Backstage At Sonia Rykiel

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Since lipstick made its triumphant return about three years ago, some brands—more so than others—have been quick to adapt to the demand for vivid, opaque offerings that are a far cry from the early aughties reliance on gloss. Shiseido is one of them, churning out the spectacular Day Lily—a bright orange—as well as the kind of reds, pinks, berries, and corals that dreams are made of. Its colorful collections can in large part be credited to artistic director Dick Page, who was spotlighting—count them—six of the brand’s most vibrant bullets of Perfect Rouge Lip Color in tangerine, cerise, raspberry, crimson, fuchsia, and deep rose backstage at Sonia Rykiel.


“I’m assigning them randomly,” Page said of the bowls of bright, glossy pigment he had “dosed”with a touch of white pigment to make each more wearable on the runway. “It also has a lot to the do with the staging,” he said of the varied applications, which were meant to correspond with Nathalie Rykiel’s “riot of color” Fall presentation that included “gangs” of girls playfully placed along the runway. To add a unifying element to the whole thing, Page employed his “magic goop”—a Tupperware jar that contained his own special blend of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, Aquaphor, and scoops of Shiseido’s new Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Technigold—for a glossy, gilded eye. A dusting of Shiseido’s Luminizing Satin Face Color in BE206—a shimmering beige—placed along the top of cheekbones provided a highlighted contour.

“She’s flirtatious and French,” Guido Palau said of Page’s painted ladies, who also sported side-parted hair rolls that were pinned low and askew for a fun youthfulness. Using Redken’s new Nature’s Rescue Radiant Sea Spray to get the matte, fuzzy texture he was after, Palau backcombed strands to create guts before twisting and tucking them along models’ necklines, finishing each coif with a long, bedazzled rhinestone barrette placed above the right ear. Kate King was the only lucky catwalker to get a different hair bauble, in the form of a red bird that was the envy of everyone backstage—this reporter included.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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