Things Get Bougie, Backstage at JPG
The Gaultier woman cashed in her punk-rock Joan Jett wig from Spring and grew up—literally. The table lined with varying tones of gray-dyed bouffants, towering, teased, and twisted, made that pretty clear. “Josh Wood dyed them,” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau said of the coloring jobs, which covered the ashen spectrum from golden gray to purple gray and everywhere in between. “Kristen McMenamy really made it an ageless color.” Palau prepped the silver strands the day before the show with loads of Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray. “It’s the sixties Hitchcock feeling that’s been around a lot this season, but we’re taking it to a Gaultier level,” which mandated a precise attention to structural detail mixed with a touch of humor (silly swirls were sculpted above bangs and molded into sideburns).
The JPG humor was clearly evident in the makeup, too. “I don’t want full makeup. I’m impeccable, I’m bourgeois, I’m chic!” makeup artist Stéphane Marais chirped of the look he was going for. The clean skin and taupe-y line he blended through the crease of models’ eyes was meant to appear “frigid.” “There’s nothing sexual here,” he said of the bare-bones beauty, which was not totally devoid of glamour. “Mascara is the only thing this woman does for herself,” Marais suggested, as he piled on layers of dense black pigment along the top lash line for a purposefully clumpy, false-lash effect. His main undertaking was full arches. Rather than simply fill them in with powders and pencils, Marais toiled over individual hairs, drawing them in along the natural shape using a dried-out brow pen. “It’s as though she’s just stopped plucking her eyebrows,” he translated of each finely crafted, deliberately placed stroke.
Before the first looks went out, Gaultier strode into the hair and makeup area to check on his glam squad and to pay his respects to some of his favorite girls, including Coco Rocha and Karolina Kurkova. “It’s great, because he can see what she’s going to look like in 60 years,” Kurkova joked at Rocha’s husband, James Conran—who was snapping pics of his wife for posterity. “Yes,” Gaultier replied. “Beautiful.”