At Viktor & Rolf, They Can Be Heroes—Just For One Day-------
“She’s been through a lot,” hairstylist Luigi Murenu quipped of the Viktor & Rolf woman for Fall. “The rain, the dust. They’re heroines—modern Joans of Arc!” While most people would take that reference and conjure images of the French patron saint’s heavy fringe, Murenu went in a different direction completely, opting to channel his embattled protagonist as she was dismounting from her horse in all of her windswept sweaty glory. Coating strands in John Frieda Luxurious Volume Thickening Mousse for a wet, piece-y texture, Murenu fashioned deep side parts and braided sections on both sides of the hairline to the back of the head, before joining both plaits into a ponytail and braiding through the ends.
If you’re thinking that Pat McGrath’s completely red faces were meant to illustrate Murenu’s galloping warriors’ subsequent sunburnt skin, don’t. It was much simpler than that. “They’re stepping out of a red camera gel light,” McGrath explained of the jarring and yet somehow totally gorgeous makeup look. “I’m taking that to a place that’s really literal”—and how. What provided the gorgeous bit here was the fact that McGrath accentuated models’ natural assets instead of blocking them out—the wash of scarlet pigment that was brushed over the entire complexion was removed from brows, which were brushed up and sculpted; lids were carved out using a sheer dusting of smoky shadows; and a thin scrawl of black liquid liner was applied before a row of extra lashes, which were curled for extra impact and a nice dose of drama. Equally impressive was how McGrath got Constance and co. back to bare post-show by calling in the big guns. “We used five different theatrical makeup removers,” she told us when we ran into her later in the day.